For Simone Bellotti‘s sophomore Jil Sander show, he took the principles of the house and made it a home. Setting down roots in his new role, Bellotti solidified the brand’s core design codes of tailored minimalism, delivering a clean-cut wardrobe at its finest. According to the show notes, “This season, the question is whether abandon can convey restraint. While the debut was a quest for the essence, Bellotti is now on the lookout for what comes after: moreness with meaning… In the logic of contradiction, the superfluous looks essential, as the act of adding mirrors the gesture of taking away.” With this premise in mind, the designer confirmed that less is always more.

The work of Swedish photographer Anders Petersen was cited as a key inspiration this season, sitting at the centre of Bellotti’s sophomore moodboard. Best known for documentary-style black and white photographs, Petersen’s penchant for monochromatic hues and capturing the beauty in the mundane translated directly into the garments on the runway. Looks arrived in a consistent palette of neutrals mixed with blacks, blues and greys, allowing the intricate tailoring and structure of Bellotti’s designs to take centre stage. Silhouettes remained sleek throughout, exemplified in a series of neat overcoats, arriving in varying lengths but with the same revere collar and sharp shoulders, while dresses and skirts appeared in a series of A-line forms with thigh-high splits. Suiting was a staple throughout Bellotti’s menswear and womenswear, working in conjunction with one another to articulate a vision of relaxed precision and architectural dressing.