Marie Lueder’s FW26 show opened the Friday of London Fashion Week at the caffeine-aided hour of 10am. For a brand that so often revels in the language of nightlife, it felt like an extreme wake-up call – lights flashing and the music turned up loud.
Lueder looked towards the influential writing of Mark Fisher
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 21 February 2026
This season, Mark Fisher has been on Marie Lueder’s mind. She first encountered the influential thinker while completing her Master’s degree, and recently she found herself returning to his writing. “I’ve been revisiting a lot of things from when the brand started,” the designers tell us in the days before the show. Her reacquaintance with Mark Fisher’s writing clearly struck a chord, as her FW26 collection takes its title from one of his most enduring books, Ghosts of My Life.
That impulse toward reflection manifested most clearly through pieces that were strewn with patches, evoking a long lineage of repairs and the memories embedded within the garments themselves. These details felt like literal embodiments of the “ghosts” invoked by the collection’s title. The same sensibility surfaced in band t-shirts printed with imagery from previous shows and text rendered in gothic, heavy-metal script.
Lueder also shaped the collection around the interplay of light and shadow, as well as placing emphasis on the craftsmanship. “In a time where people can make things so quickly with AI, I think people long for craftsmanship,” she tells us. This process was evident in the coats with armour-like shoulders, the contrast stitching throughout, as well as the patch pieces. Each detail conveyed the work of several hands over several hours.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Lueder WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-26