Welcome to the HERO SS15 daily roundup – the most important shows, themes and concepts, contextually curated for your reading pleasure. The best place to understand the week’s events in fashion.

Kenzo, with a mix from Disclosure, resurrected speed garage. In the middle of Paris. At 10am. On a Saturday morning.

Showing in the open air beside the seine, models walked from the over the bridge, down the street and into the Kenzo hub where it threatened to pelt with rain any minute. It didn’t, despite the best efforts of that rumbling, jacking soundtrack to summon the clouds’ release.

The collection was an American ode to Paris. Taking codes from scooter culture like parkas and motorcycle pants (important: not a scooter) and mixing with ‘Les Souvenirs Français’ such as Eiffel Tower jacquard, broken Breton stripe, the Statue of Liberty and even the poster image for Les Mis, as usual Carol and Humberto’s eye for accessories too shone through, with signature eyewear and Le Corbusier-inspired bags.

Lim and Leon have quickly built a youthful following at Kenzo and these clothes will in no way disappoint their fans who live and club-hop in them. Have no doubt you’ll hear the mix blaring out of a slammed BMW M3 cruising the street at some point.

At the Tennis Club de Paris, Kris Van Assche continued his dialogue with Monsieur Christian Dior himself, following last season’s Lily of the Valley good-luck charm. 

“I was very inspired by a letter written by Mr Dior in the fifties that I found in the archive; in it he talks about how vital it is to maintain traditions… I wanted a sense of renewal and an idea of Christian Dior’s artistic milieu to come through as well as his love of formality and tradition.”

The show, with its impressively complex choreography, played with clichés of the bourgeois businessman and idiosyncrasies of the bohemian artist (Mr Dior’s close friends included Jean Cocteau, René Gruau and Christian Bérard).

Dior Homme SS15: Look 41

That explains the crayon mark-making embroideries. And the text Van Assche found – “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation” – appeared on stonewashed denim and bags. A navy suit with double-breasted fastening was stripped of all extraneous buttons, leaving just two, side-by-side. In tonic finish the fabric’s stripes evoked the signature pleats of Dior.

At Miharayasuhiro, a tribute to the late stylist Bryan McMahon, best known for his role as fashion editor at AnOther Man. Bryan was a man with unsurpassable, immaculate style; infectious, wicked humour and the right all-or-nothing attitude.

Miharayasuhiro SS15: Look 1

Several looks in this show, brilliantly styled by Luke Day, saw models walk in his image; the hat, the beads, the paisley silks. They looked incredible. They looked like him.

AMI closed the day, presenting a high school courtyard in a Gustave Eiffel-designed building (he did more than spectacular towers).

Citing 90’s TV favourites Heartbreak High, Beverly Hills 90210 and Saved By the Bell plus John Hughes’ landmark The Breakfast Club, when the bell rings, school’s out and the adrenaline kicks in. That feeling remains, no matter your age. It was entirely appropriate here, with a 21H show slot.

Stripes and cupid’s pierced heart featured, with ripped and scuffed jeans, windbreakers, two button blazers, oversized windowpane plaid and daydream doodling with a Sharpie.

The notes talked poetically of a teenage state we all remember – “a near aristocratic feeling of freshness, nonchalance, romance and doe-eye innocence, markers that embody adolescence.” The girls in the show had a life beyond the library, homework and revision, as their clothes were stolen from their boyfriends: still AMI, but in size small.

Check out our roundups of Paris days one, two, three and five plus London and Milan.