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Menswear SS25 takeaways: things got sexy
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 3 July 2024
This article is part of Fashion Week – London, Milan, Paris, NYC

With the SS25 menswear season wrapped, we dive into the themes and trends we saw across London, Milan and Paris.

If this era of menswear is going to be remembered for anything, it’s going to be for how much skin we saw on the men’s runways. When Tom Ford put a man in a G-string in his SS97 show for Gucci it was one of the first times that such obviously homoerotic sexiness had been flaunted on the runway of a major house. Now, a menswear collection that isn’t thigh-heavy is rare.

Sabato De Sarno’s menswear collection for Gucci probably had the shortest hemline ratio of any show this season. One look was simply just a pair of Ancora Rosso boxer shorts paired with horsebit leather boots and a choker.

Gucci SS25 look 23

David Koma‘s debut menswear collection was a lookbook that could be mistaken for a pin-up calendar, the male models had a look of desire in their eyes as they posed around gym equipment in their white vests and leather thongs. Acne Studios went all out with a lookbook inspired by superhero archetypes in which a single male model wore a denim mini-skirt, leather and latex, and short shorts.

David Koma SS25 look 9

It shows that menswear designers have finally been liberated from the traditional silhouettes of shirts and suits, allowing them to explore what womenswear designers have been able to do for decades. What is exciting, as a consequence, is that this kind of fashion for men is finally hitting the mainstream. Though you must imagine that Dean and Dan from Dsquared2 are staring at their watches somewhere thinking that it’s about time! – Check out their sexed-up Magic Mike collection here!

Dsquared2 SS25 look 42

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