Founded in 2019 by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, EGONLAB has created a world built around an irreverent spirit, freedom of expression and the power of fluidity. The brand has become best known for a design language articulated through experimental destruction, tearing up traditional silhouettes and piecing them back together to represent the distortion of today. Recipients of the Andam Pierre Bergé Prize in 2021, the duo have since gone on to dress the likes of Troye Sivan, Justin Bieber and Harry Styles – remember that custom, sparkling, multicoloured jumpsuit he wore at the Grammy’s last year? That was EGONLAB.

This season sees the duo tap into the universal psyche with a collection titled Only Lovers Left Alive, dissecting what it means to love unashamedly in a world which can appear to be working against you. Drawing inspiration from existential philosophy, this season’s ideas are expressed through delicate drapery reminiscent of classical statues, sharp-shouldered silhouettes and elevated tailoring. Ahead of the brand’s FW24 show in Paris tomorrow, EGONLAB’s designer duo Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix offered us an exclusive look at their collection, inviting us into their studio (self-declared as a “theatre of the absurd”) to detail the inspirations, soundtracks and intentions which lie at the heart of this season. 

This season is titled Only Lovers Left Alive, where did the name come from and what’s the meaning behind it?
“The title Only Lovers Left Alive encapsulates the essence of our latest collection, drawing inspiration from the profound concept of self-love and the journey towards accepting oneself. In a world that constantly challenges us to conform and fit into predefined moulds, we wanted to create a collection that celebrates the beauty of embracing one’s true self. The title is a play on the idea that, in life’s challenges and uncertainties, only those who truly love and accept themselves remain standing. It’s a reminder that love, especially self-love, is a powerful force that can endure and thrive even in the face of adversity.”

“The garments in this collection serve as symbolic bridges between the tangible and the intangible.”

What themes are you exploring for FW24?
“This collection is a genuine exorcism, where we tear apart the corporeal envelope to unveil bodies vividly tormented by a society of overconsumption, a beauty imposed at times acting as a vector of trauma that may compromise our mental well-being. Drawing inspiration from existential philosophy, this line seeks to transcend the superficial layers of fashion, delving into the profound complexities of human existence. In the spirit of Sartrean authenticity, we challenge the prescribed notions of beauty and confront the psychological toll of conforming to societal standards. The garments in this collection serve as symbolic bridges between the tangible and the intangible, embodying the struggle for individuality in a world dominated by mass conformity.”

“…cunty pop takes the lead.”

How has your wearer evolved since last season?
“From the fluidity of gender to the dynamic concept of gender liquidity, EGONLAB’s essence transcends the boundaries of the physical, aspiring to a connection that is more spiritual than corporeal. Our brand is meticulously crafted to envelop itself around the unique aura of each individual, emphasizing a harmonious synthesis where the inner self takes precedence. We aim to redefine the fashion landscape by celebrating the diverse and ever-evolving nature of identity, inspired by the contemporary spirit and the fluid beauty of personal expression.”

What’s been playing on the studio stereo during the making of this collection?
“In terms of music, the studio is truly a theatre of the absurd. We can listen to all types of music, but at the end of the day, cunty pop takes the lead.”

What sort of images or references have been on your mood board?
“We have a rich collection of sculptural references and drapery. Additionally, we have delved into archival texts, the cradle of the beauty canon still revered today. Instead of confining ourselves to imagery aligned with our DNA, we prefer to extract every possible piece of information to captivate you as a designer.”

How would you sum up FW24 in three words?
“Distortion, Disorder, Healing.”

The EGONLAB FW24 show takes place on January 17th.