Cheat sheet

What to look out for at London Fashion Week: debuts, newbies and anniversaries
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 9 September 2024
This article is part of Fashion Week – London, Milan, Paris, NYC

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! No, not Christmas, it’s London Fashion Week. From the 12th to the 17th of September, mega brands like Burberry, Erdem, Simone Rocha and J.W. Anderson will be showing their latest collections, alongside iconic indie London brands like S.S. Daley, 16Arlington, Chopova Lowena and Nensi Dojaka.

London Fashion Week isn’t all about the runways, however. Every year the week becomes a festival of industry talks, presentations, parties and store takeovers. It can be overwhelming. Thankfully, we’re here to make it a little easier for you with our guide to the shows and events to look out for this LFW.

S.S. Daley debuts womenswear

Having skipped London Fashion Week last September, S.S. Daley is back on the schedule this month with a collection that will feature his debut womenswear line. Yes, Daley has featured womenswear in most of his previous collections but his forthcoming SS25 collection will herald the official launch of his womenswear line.

This expansion of the S.S. Daley brand is just another milestone in what has been an impressively busy for the Liverpudlian designer. Daley began the year as the guest designer of Pitti Uomo’s 105th edition in Florence, showcasing a stunning collection inspired by E.M. Forster and private school attire, which was quickly followed up by the news that Harry Styles had become a minority shareholder in the S.S. Daley. We think it’s safe to say Daley’s SS25 collection will be one show you don’t want to miss.

S.S. Daley will show on September 13th at 13:00

 

New Fashion East cohort

Lulu Kennedy’s fashion incubator is now in its 24th year and has been responsible for igniting the careers of Jonathan Anderson, Martine Rose, Craig Green and Gareth Pugh, to name but a few superstars.

The latest battalion of Fashion East designers will be making their debuts at the show’s Friday evening slot this LFW. Joining returning designers Olly Shinder and Samara Scott of Sosskyn are the German-born designer Pia Schiele with her brand Loutre; the footwear designer Kitty Shukman; and Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika with their brand Nuba.

As always, Fashion East is an incredibly exciting moment on the schedule where we get a chance to see where the future of London fashion lies.

Fashion East will show on September 13th at 18:00

Olly Shinder, FW24

 

Standing Ground and Johanna Parv debut

Speaking of Fashion East, alumni Standing Ground and Johanna Parv will be making their solo debuts on the schedule this September.

Standing Ground is the brainchild of Irish designer Michael Stewart who founded the brand in 2017 after graduating from the Royal College of Art. He has become renowned for his singular take on gowns, often creating couture-like pieces that feature unique beading and dazzling fabric manipulation.

Johanna Parv’s final show for Fashion East was inspired by London’s cyclists. It was a collection that encapsulated Parv’s aesthetic best, a fashion-forward take on urbanwear where practicality is the key. This was probably best conveyed by her insulated mini-skirts, so you could cycle without freezing your ass off.

Standing Ground will show on September 14th at 16:00; Johanna Parv will show on September 16th at 10:00

Standing Ground SS24

 

Celebrate 15 years of Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn was something of a revolutionary when he first burst onto the London fashion scene back in the late 00s with his predilection for using surplus fabrics and for “upcycling” years before the term even existed.

To celebrate his first fifteen years in fashion, there will be a retrospective of the work of Christopher Raeburn in The Lab E20 in Hackney Wick. Curated by Harris Elliott, the Raeburn 15 Retrospective will chart the history of the experimental Raeburn brand and the impact it had on the fashion industry as a whole.

Raeburn 15 Retrospective is running from September 15th to the 17th at the Lab E20

Christopher Raeburn FW19

 

Welcome to London, Puppets & Puppets 

Having staged her “final show” at New York Fashion Week in February, Carly Mark and her brand Puppets & Puppets are relaunching as a London-based brand this LFW. Over the past five years, Puppets & Puppets has become one of New York’s downtown darlings. Their theatrical runways were a balm in the cutthroat New York schedule where indie brands have to fight it out with mega-brands like Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors. London will suit Puppets & Puppets.

Puppets & Puppets will show on September 13th at 19:00

Puppets & Puppets, pre-Spring 24 collection

 

Mithridate debut on schedule

The cutting-edge luxury Chinese fashion house Mithridate is joining the official London schedule this season. Having appeared off-schedule for the past few seasons, Mithridate have become a cult favourite in London thanks to their fusion of cultural heritage and modern design. We’re told, their forthcoming collection will be inspired by the designers home province of Yunnan, A Tribute to Tradition, Culture and Personal Heritage.

Mithridate will show on September 15th at 14:30

GALLERY

 

Sandwiches and shirts
Last season, heritage US brand Gant fuelled our London Fashion Week, teaming up with Dom’s Subs to provide delicious free sandwiches. This season, Gant return with another renowned London eatery: Rita’s. Celebrating the brand’s 75th anniversary, Gant will be holding a special pop-up at 59 Greek Street showcasing their new archive-inspired collection, and serving some of Rita’s famous lunchtime signatures.

Gant’s 75th anniversary pop-up will be open to the public from Tuesday 17th September.




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