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PFW highlights: post-Dries Dries, sophomore McQueen, and Alessandro Michele’s return
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 24 September 2024
Above:

Backstage at Dries Van Noten FW24 / photography by Allan Hamitouche for HERO 32

This article is part of Fashion Week – London, Milan, Paris, NYC

After New York, London and Milan, it’s finally time for the behemoth of fashion week — Paris. Nine full days, over one hundred shows and presentations, and not nearly enough champagne to appease the whims of the international fashion press. So, where do you even begin with Paris Fashion Week? As always, we’ve got you covered. Our guide to Paris Fashion Week SS25 will have you at only the most unmissable shows, with enough time at the end to kick back and enjoy a party (or three).

Courrèges will bring sleek sexiness

Ever since Nicolas Di Felice was appointed the creative director of Courrèges back in 2020, the brand has gone through an incredible revival. The house’s founder, André Courrèges revolutionised fashion in the 1960s, being one of the people often credited with inventing the miniskirt. Courrèges passed away in 2016, but Di Felice’s tenure at the brand stays within his original vision – making sleek and sexy outfits that feel outrageously fun.

Courrèges will show on Wednesday the 25th at 10:30 CEST

GALLERY

Dries, post-Dries

After 150 collections and 129 shows, Dries Van Noten very gracefully retired from designing last season (see our HERO 32 cover story documenting the designer’s last show). But the show must always go on and the first post-Dries Dries Van Noten show will be happening on the 25th. Being helmed by the in-house design team, this new collection won’t be a sudden and radical departure (imagine if it was!) but it will signal a brave new future for the brand. Let’s hope Dries will be tuning into the livestream from his garden.

Dries Van Noten will show on Wednesday the 25th at 15:00 CEST

GALLERY

Rick Owens will beam in from another planet

Rick Owens returned to his usual spot in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo last season with a show that referenced the over-the-top theatrics of old Hollywood. If you’ll recall, Rick had spent a few seasons before that showing at home, literally. Those salon-style shows were the antithesis of everything that we expected from Rick, which meant that they were perhaps his most audacious shows yet. But this season, he’s safely back at the Palais, so expect things to be big, brash, and totally bonkers.

Rick Owens will show on Thursday the 26th at 17:30 CEST

GALLERY

Stefano Gallici will continue his streak at Ann Demeulemeester 

If his blockbuster last show was anything to go by, Stefano Gallici’s forthcoming collection for Ann Demeulemeester will be an unmissable moment on the calendar. Gallici’s uber cool styling has brought a whole new life to Ann Demeulemeester ever since he took over as Creative Director at the brand this time last year. Expect lots of black, lots of leather, and a brilliantly dark and electronic soundtrack.

Ann Demeulemeester will show on Saturday the 28th at 18:30 CEST

GALLERY

Seán McGirr will present his second runway for McQueen

Seán McGirr made a huge impression with his Enya-soundtracked debut for McQueen at the beginning of the year, but now comes the famously difficult sophomore runway. If his resort collection was anything to go by, McGirr will lean more obviously on the iconography of McQueen, bringing Lee McQueen’s famed penchant for Savile Row tailoring via suits and some wonderfully surreal accessories.

McQueen will show on Saturday the 28th at 20:00 CEST

GALLERY

Duran Lantink will bring the weird and wonderful 

Heroine 21 cover star Duran Lantink will present his SS25 collection at Paris this season. An indie darling of the calendar, in recent years Lantink has proven himself to be a formidable force in fashion. His FW24 show, where he displayed many of his – now signature – bumpy outfits, felt like a major collection from a major designer. On top of all that, he’s just fresh from winning the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize, which will see him receiving €200,000 to expand his brand and a one-year mentorship from LVMH.

Duran Lantink will show on Sunday the 29th at 13:00 CEST

GALLERY

Alessandro Michele’s first runway for Valentino 

It’s the event that everyone is waiting for this Paris Fashion Week. Alessandro Michele will be presenting his first runway collection for Valentino. After Pier Paolo Piccioli’s surprise departure from Valentino earlier this year, Michele was brought back into the conversation after an extended period of silence from the designer after his equally as surprising exit from Gucci. After dropping a huge lookbook during Milan Fashion Week this summer, we’ve already got a taste of what Michele will bring to Valentino, but this runway show will undoubtedly be seen as a welcome return for the designer to the fashion week schedule.

Valentino will show on Sunday the 29th at 15:00 CEST

Valentino Resort 2025

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