A spirit of evolution is in the air for Daniel W. Fletcher’s SS23 collection. Having fought through the worst of the pandemic, a high-stakes design competition via Netflix’s Next In Fashion, and an entire decade of London living as he established himself as a front-running presence in British fashion, Fletcher’s next move is all about taking stock of these last few years. Digging beyond his journey in the UK’s bustling capital city, the designer’s attentions have turned to the many sprawling subcultures that preceded his arrival, particularly that of the British punk scene and the button-clad Pearly Kings and Queens that comprise the countries’ alternative Royal Family.

As a devout 60s and 70s obsessive, who is often helpless against his own urge to plaster iconic pics of the Rolling Stones over each collection’s mood board, this season Fletcher is casting his eye over the 80s, considering its lavish excesses in shapely shouldered tailoring, as well as its rich musical landscape of synth-loving superstars (Eurythmics & New Order) and genre-bending club kids (Culture Club). He supposes the shift is a bit more teenage angst-influenced, giving a raw-hemmed edge to the formal cuts and school-boy stripes he’s become known for, detailing his starting point and SS23 musical muses below.

What’s been on your mind this season?
“It’s been ten years since I first moved to London and I was thinking a lot about that when I was designing it; the people and experiences that have inspired me since making it my home, but also the artists, musicians and subcultures that came before me and made the city what it is today.”

What can we expect from your men’s and womenswear collection this season?
“I don’t approach men’s and women’s separately when designing, the starting point is always the same and it’s only later that they separate at all, but really, I hope that anyone can pick the pieces out that they love, regardless of the intended gender. That starting point this season came from looking at some London icons like Boy George, Johnny Rotten, The Pearly Kings and Queens and David Bowie.

What’s been on the studio stereo during the making of this collection?
“I’ve been in a bit of an 80s mood, which you might see in the collection (there’s some big shoulder pads!), so Eurythmics, Culture Club, New Order, INXS, Soft Cell.”

“…our woman is definitely stepping out on her own for SS23.”

How has your woman evolved from last season?
“I think she’s sexier. Last season felt more boyish, but this collection feels like she’s ready to do business, there’s more tailoring and the whole thing feels more formal. DWF women’s has evolved from the men’s so the inspiration still comes from traditional menswear garments but our woman is definitely stepping out on her own for SS23.”

How has your man evolved from last season?
“He also feels a bit sharper, but at the same time he’s got a punkier edge, there are a lot of checks and metal pieces that take the traditional influences to a new place. I think I’m more known for my schoolboy stripes, but this season there’s a bit more teenage angst.”

Can you tease a few influences that describe the collection?
“It’s a sharp-shouldered checkerboard mess of 80s London icons!”