(Agenda setting / a gender-setting) Alien Brain and When Your Own Initials Are Enough
Welcome to the HERO SS15 daily roundup – the most important shows, themes and concepts, contextually curated for your reading pleasure. The best place to understand the week’s events in fashion.
There are not many fashion designers who would use Psychic TV to soundtrack an entire show. Thankfully, there is Prada – who would, and did. Sound wizard Frederic Sanchez mixed Trussed and Alien Brain to serious, shimmering effect, as the light from AMO’s custom-built indoor ‘pool’ danced off the walls and ceiling.
In Genesis Breyer P-Orridge’s career, songs reappear and rename themselves. Like water boiling, hitting the air and recondensing, it’s cyclic, magick is alive. In Miuccia Prada’s case it was precisely one year ago the designer sent out her dark ’n’ stormy Resort 2014 women’s collection in the men’s show, shifting the balance of not only the catwalk but the entire fashion week. Suddenly the best thing about Milan menswear was women.
This season she continued that work. For SS15, the designer’s conservative jeans collection felt as much a womenswear show as men’s. The heavy stitching technique might be borrowed from leathergoods, the historic foundation of Prada, but the lines evoked denim; all universality, integrity and rigour. Sometimes they were nothing as standard as jeans but instead a cloth trouser in denim’s image. When the women’s tailoring was punctuated with lines of crystals it was a story of personal luminescence, like the spirit shining through the body.
Prada SS15: Look 1
To talk about P-Orridge’s Pandrogeny project, with h/er – the cultural engineer identifies using the pronouns s/he, h/er, and h/erself – wife Lady Jay, a process which saw the artists undergo surgery to become the same gender-neutral being across two bodies, would be rather grand in the context of a collection of clothes. But it flashed through the mind as the show went on, as Prada played something that didn’t have the nasty taste of the word ‘unisex’ but went across men and women – without clichés of either ‘masculinity’ or ‘femininity’.
“In between a cave, a cruise ship, and an indoor pool,” was longtime collaborator AMO’s description of their set. “The set up questions the relationship between outdoor and indoor: water invades the space, redefining the existing elements, changing proportions, reflecting unexpected point of views, augmenting the show.” So no, not a collection for lounging waterside, holding a drink with a little umbrella in, should you still be under any misapprehension.
Prada Mens SS15: Showspace
That’s the joy of this designer. Things are never wrapped up in a little bow, because life is more complicated and art should reflect that, much as it can also chime with instinct and the instant. Want it summarised? That’s why we’re here. Agenda setting and a gender-setting. Under 140 characters, perfect for Twitter. You’re welcome.
The day’s beginning was epic too – in the way that the house whose mantra, “When your own initials are enough” knows only how.
Starting with an espresso in the Bottega Veneta garden, complete with its vegetable patch – something that requires time, patience and nuture; much like an artisan working with Intrecciato hand woven leather – Thomas Maier excelled once again at making the finest seem nonchalant.
Bonded lamb silk pull-on pants, cashmere faded jacquard sweaters, calf suede soft crocodile duffels. Strong descriptions aren’t they? Whilst other labels balance bags on models as convincingly as Buckaroo!, here it is a very real part of the story. Not only did the name begin with leather goods but, like the fashion, it’s all imbued with the attitude of enhancing your life, not caricaturing it. Look at the backpacks in particular for that, which had discrete crocodile trim running underneath, where no one sees, to the parts that touch desks, tables, floors (admittedly the most exclusive of).
Bottega Veneta SS15: Look 39
The collection was inspired by dancers, which explains the hairbands, tap shoes and extreme ease of the clothes. Bottega Veneta doesn’t do endorsement (again see the assured mantra) but if you’re looking for a little-known bit of trivia, here it is: Andy Warhol was a fan. Even the king of Pop Art never exploited that. His Own Initials Were Enough? Clearly.
Check out our roundups of Milan days one, three and four plus London and Paris.