Since his debut show in 2018, Louis Gabriel Nouchi has quickly become one of fashion’s most exciting new designers – with an ANDAM prize under his belt to prove it. Built on a design language of gender-fluid suiting and a minimalist colour palette, the designer often sources his inspiration from prominent works of literature. Now a regular on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, last season Nouchi presented an SS25 collection titled Under My Skin inspired by Patrick Süskind’s 1985 novel Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, continuing his penchant for imbuing garments with a sense of storytelling. Ahead of his upcoming FW25 show, the designer took us behind the scenes in an exclusive photo diary, talking us through his evolving vision of the LGN wearer, the brand’s continued partnership with ECCO.kollective, and a debut Puma collab.

How has the LGN wearer evolved from last season?
“It’s more radical. It’s really a continuity with more risk and more exploration of new categories like blousons, dresses, denim and knitwear. We wanted to stretch ideas like transparency, leather, fur, and how we work on the bodies, showing skin and sensuality inherent to it.”

Can you talk us through any new materials, styles or techniques that came about with this collection?
“I’m very proud to be able to work with Kvadrat, who support us a lot and there are more things to come with them. It’s the first time we’ve used velvet, we introduced a new overdid blue denim, that feels elegant and casual. Leather brings the brutalist and raw feeling to delicate viscose jerseys that look like tights. We also did a jacquard in wool that looks like a classic mouliné. ECCO.kollective new season has been amazing, and I feel extremely proud to work with them as we show pieces we’ve been working on for years. The Puma team also with our new Mostro that I’m extremely proud to finally show today!”

What kind of images or reference points have been on your mood board?
“1984, Charlotte Rampling in The Night Porter, the video clip of Duran Duran’s The Chauffeur, skins, eyes close-up, machines and enginery, archetypal menswear photoshoot from the 90s UOMO magazine.”

How would you sum up this season in three words?
“Aggressive, body, sexy”