• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 23rd June 2014

The vision Miuccia Prada presented yesterday was severe and unified, translated via male and female looks that were in no way gender bending.

Here were artful cowboys, respectful of the traditional ideals ingrained in masculinity and femininity and with a subtle sense of 9-5 normality turned on its head.

Collars were over exaggerated, Midwest style. Top stitches were heavy and white and set against deep navy, while rich brown leather outerwear continued into leather-details on denim pieces. And the classic Prada bi-colour continued its journey with particular strength across the first string of looks, playing those dark tones off against gentler blue shirting.

Though a Prada collection always leaves the lingering scent of intellect, the real feat is the concurrent lack of pomp and fuss. That was the overwhelming feeling yesterday; a collection that was conservative but in no way aligned with the trendy ‘normcore’ crock some might stretch to liken it to. Prada is far beyond that.

Brilliant also was the humorous play off of this stern summer collection with the cliché runway locale of a poolside venue. And really that’s where Miuccia Prada’s genius most intensely rests: her ability to project artistry with a casualness that’s simply human.