For SS26, Craig Green returned to Paris for the first time since 2022. In recent years, shifting around has become routine for Green, he showed in London last year and released only a lookbook the year before. Now producing just one collection annually, Green seems to be doing everything a fashion brand isn’t supposed to do in 2025. Yet, despite being scheduled on the notoriously quiet final day of fashion week, when most attendees are ready to head home, the designer drew a devoted crowd.

And what a treat for everyone who stayed. Green’s SS26 collection was one of the strongest displays of the week. Before we even look at the clothes, you have to talk about the eyewear. Models walked the runway wearing glasses frames fitted not with lenses, but with small torches positioned in front of each eye, casting beams of light. They gave the models a permanent deer-in-the-headlights look as their eyes glowed along the sandy, yellow runway.

In this collection, Green went for – as the show notes stated – “Familiar, yet uncanny / like a lover’s favourite record played backwards.” Meaning we had all of Green familiar military codes, but here presented through a distinctly 1960s lens. If you think some of the coats have a distinctly Sgt. Pepper‘s look to them, you’d have got it in one. Green, rather surprisingly, looked to The Beatles as his main inspiration behind the collection. No, this wasn’t Green selling out and creating a capsule in anticipation for the forthcoming Beatles movies, instead he mostly took inspiration from the band’s unbelievably prolific work ethic, producing several of the greatest albums of all time in a small handful of years.

The first half of the collection focused on Green’s signature deconstruction, with ripped and frayed knitwear paired with semi-constructed coats. New additions to his ongoing collaboration with Fred Perry also made an appearance, including matching two-piece long-sleeved aprons, and lightweight jackets. The collection then burst into technicolour. Parkas were layered over vivid knits, neck scarves were repurposed as waist accessories, and boiler suits were adorned with floral leatherwear. It all culminated in a riot of psychedelic patterns splashed across coats, shirts, and trousers. This was loud luxury.