For SS16, Alex Mullins took his man on holiday – one of those sexually liberating adolescent escapes that have become a rite of passage for British teens. Youthful nostalgia was at the core of the collection as the playful side of Mullins’ gang was clearly on show via hand painted graffiti scrawled across white kimono-esque garments and structured bomber jackets.
Youth frequently plays the protagonist in Mullins’ narrative and for his FW16 collection that transitional period returns, however the holiday season has now come to an abrupt end and a sense of yawning, apathetic reality has kicked in.
However, for this designer boredom is merely a fundamental step towards imaginative discovery; a time of reflection and emotional release. This core idea translates to a Britpop inspired, Alan Sillitoe-esque vision. Think Gregory’s Girl meets Damon Albarn’s iconic face of teenage indifference.
Alex James Taylor: What have you been up to since SS16? Does this in anyway relate to your FW16 collection?
Alex Mullins: Since showing SS16 I have moved studio! I strongly believe that your surroundings effect your creative process, so I think you will be able to see a sense of liberation in my upcoming FW16 collection.
AJT: Last season saw you look towards teen holiday nostalgia, can you tell us about the the narrative for your FW16 collection?
AM: This season I’m looking more to an exploration of what happens in your imagination when your bored– seeing boredom as a necessary activity to liberate your mind. This base idea is then reflected to mundane, British, kitchen sink realism and how it was vocalised in the Britpop movement. Taking a very realistic approach to clothing but considering more the function, the feeling when wearing, and spontaneous activity of one’s imagination to influence the garments.
AJT: Are there any new techniques or fabrics you are have incorporated in your designs this season?
AM: I have been working with both denim and wool mills to create textiles that really play with the function and nature of the fabric. The decoration is crude, married with refined cuts. Sleezy silhouettes with dynamic textiles.
AJT: What excites you the most about this season?
Alex Mullins will show his FW16 collection at London Collections: Men this Friday, 8th January. Stay tuned to HERO for full, fashion-week coverage from London, Milan, Paris and New York.