Beijing-born, London-based designer Oscar Ouyang made his London Fashion Week debut as pat of the BFC’s Newgen schedule last season, delivering a collection steeped in folkloric symbolism. A Central Saint Martins graduate specialising in knitwear, his design language centres on the art of storytelling through fabric and form.

Returning to the Newgen space for his sophomore show, FW26 sees the preppiness of Ouyang’s previous collection come loose. The stiff upper lip of the boys in British society is gone; they’re on their way to an after-party in a countryside estate – ties loosened, coat tails rucked along the way. Titled The Last Party, the designer turned to portraits from Ian MacDonald’s infamous black-and-white photography series Eton and the TV adaptations of Agatha Christie’s murder mysteries. In a preview before today’s runway show, Ouyang gave us a sneak peek into this season’s offering, walking us through the story behind The Last Party.

Ella Joyce: This is your sophomore show in the Newgen programme. How does it feel to be returning to the LFW schedule?
Oscar Ouyang: It comes with familiarity, knowing that we can push more with the support of Newgen.

EJ: What themes are you exploring for FW26?
OO: FW26 is titled The Last Party. The hedonistic society boy who’s had a bit too much fun, and that polished appearance coming undone is a perfect metaphor for the approach to design of the collection this season. We’ve looked at traditional archetypes of the men’s wardrobe and given them a twist, with military-embroidered details replaced by hand-crocheted elements, denim and jersey given a new perspective with inserts of knit and patchwork embroidery. There’s a playfulness and unexpectedness to the collection by looking at the traditional, the polished, the perfected and fucking it up a bit. We (the audience) recognise the codes of the collection, but they are perverted in a sense: strange yet familiar.

EJ: What sort of images or cultural references have been at the centre of your mood board this season?
OO: Art Nouveau, Eton by Ian MacDonald.

“The hedonistic society boy who’s had a bit too much fun…”

“I’ve also been watching all the Agatha Christie series.”

EJ: Can you talk us through any new materials, styles or techniques that came about with this collection?
OO: Cashmere, llama wool tweed, fine silk yarn. Coat and jacket tailoring, leather accessories.

EJ: How has your wearer evolved since last season?
OO: This is a more elevated boy’s wardrobe. It’s a balance between the tailoring and nativity. Eveningwear paired with New Balance trainers.

EJ: What sort of things have you been listening to or watching during the making of this collection?
OO: Ear, Crystal Castles, Lou Reed. I’ve also been watching all the Agatha Christie series.