Yes, the rumours are true. Miu Miu Men’s is back for the first time since 2008.

The FW22 show started with a spindly, plasticine fist emerging from the shadows, a joint collaborative effort by artists Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg. It outstretched its lengthy, curled talons to reveal a dainty flower, before crushing different variations of the podgy plasticine form, over and over and over again. There’s something to be said of the disruption of this jarring visual, echoed in the collection’s harsh leathers, weighty shoulders and sharp cuts. It was about tenacity just as much as it was about tennis, and, err, knee-socks with ballet flats.

As Miu Miu is the barometer of all things cool and young, FW22 tells us that furry collars, cropped cricket knits, frilly undies, crisscrossed rhinestone two-sets held up by leather belts and biker trousers are all in. As was the Instagram-famous Miu Miu-mini, back in the form of a sporty tennis skirt, just as high-cut at its forebearer but in a slew of stretchy, soft pastels. 

For the fellas, it was all about double belted shorts in distressed leather, visible pant lines, silky undershirts, slinky handbags, knee-length skirts (for modesty, of course) and thick, shearling coats. Despite the advent of the Miu Miu booty short in dark plaid, androgyny ruled the roost, making way for deep-cut argyle knits and lacy dresses beaded with an intense, shimmery delicacy. Some were gold, others Tiffany blue, but no matter what colour variation took your fancy the most, you can’t deny that, really, they were Miuccia all over.