Yesterday, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez returned to Paris FashionWeek to deliver their sophomore Loewe collection. Guests headed to Esplanade Saint-Louis on the outskirts of the city, greeted by a giant green ginham box in the courtyard of the 17th-century building. Inside the cube, plush sculptures of clams, seals and lobsters – a large-scale version of the leather lobster claw each attendee received as this season’s show invite – created by German artist Cosima von Bonin, were placed among the audience. As is customary with any Loewe show, the front row was packed, including the likes of Julia Garner, Sarah Pidegeon and the house’s latest campaign stars, Talia Ryder and True Whittaker.

“One key consideration was how this spirit of play might broaden the codes we articulated during our first season at Loewe,” read the show notes, asking the question: “How does the sun-drenched, optimistic physicality of our first season merge with this playful, experimental act of making to become something new — something more nuanced and layered — yet remain profoundly Loewe?” That playfulness was palpable. Drawing on Spain’s energetic culture and vibrant way of living, the collection carried an addictive momentum. The sculptural silhouettes of last season were pushed further: outerwear cinched at the waist, bloomed at the hip, or ballooned into cocoon-like forms that billowed as models moved down the runway. Dresses were crafted in latex, printed in tartan check, cut high at the thigh and trailing fringed trains, or trimmed with faux fur. The primary colours of last season remained as the designers debuted a series of colour-blocking looks in saturated hues, with monochromatic suiting and oversized double-hooded jackets. The collection prioritised “a devotion to craft and its endless opportunities for innovation and development, propelled by boundless curiosity,” and as that curiosity continues to grow, Jack Lazaro’s new era of Loewe just gets better and better.