From one debut to another! As Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson made his mark on Dior, his successors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, stepped into their new roles at the helm the following day. Inviting guests to Parc Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris on the outskirts of the city, a large white box stood at the centre of the site’s pristine gardens, with an A-List front row including the likes of Parker Posey, Pedro Almodóvar, Sarah Paulson, Solange Knowles and Tracee Ellis Ross in attendance.

Prior to the show, the former Proenza Schouler designers teased their debut collection in a series of sun-drenched images by Talia Chetrit, unveiling a new cast of faces such as Lewis Gribben, Eva Victor and Isla Johnston alongside shots of wet t-shirts, bikini bottoms and cherries. The collection that hit the runway alluded to that same energy, a vibrant, saturated series of skin-baring looks and graphic silhouettes which alluded to sunnier climes. Hot pants were paired with sculptural leather jackets, slouchy five-pocket denim jeans were worn with nothing but a jumper slung over the shoulders, and rigid mini dresses held an hourglass shape. Touches of sportswear came through in technical anoraks and tank tops, walking alongside sweeping fuzzy outerwear, beaded skirts and streamlined trenches – immortalising the duality of the Spanish house’s enduring codes.

At the entrance of the show space stood Ellsworth Kelly’s seminal 1989 abstract piece, Yellow Panel with Red Curve. “In it lies a vibrancy and tactility that feels fundamental to the House; a chromatic intensity and sensuality that feels inherent to its Spanish roots; and ultimately an optimism and spirit that we deeply identify with,” said the design duo. Exploring the American artist’s penchant for the abstract and exploration of colour, McCollough and Hernandez turned to his use of primary and elemental colours to execute their vision of Loewe. The pair’s shownotes opened with a series of questions, asking themselves, “How might craft be redefined today? How far can one push the expression of the handmade before its very traces of making disappear? What constitutes Spanishness in 2025 – released from the weight of history, yet respectful of it?” As the final look hit the runway, it was clear that the designers had found their answers, writing a new chapter in the house’s 180 years of history.