Distort the daily

Loewe SS24: super high waists, illusion tops and giant knitting needles
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 30 September 2023

On the outskirts of Paris inside the walls of the historic castles of Esplanade Saint-Louis, a white show space populated with opulent bronze sculptures by American artist Lynda Benglis set the scene for Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe SS24 collection. In a mystifying play on proportion and an exaggeration of traditional silhouettes, this season saw the Spanish house warp notions of wearability and craft. 

While the low-waisted, slouchy silhouette of the Y2K phenomena has populated runways for what now feels like forever, Anderson pushed waistlines into uncharted territory. Tactile corduroy and acid-washed denim was fashioned into bust-skimming super high-waisted trousers, paired with oversized, sharp-shouldered blazers in game-keeper check, finely woven second-skin polo shirts and conceptual tops formed from shimmering flower brooches.

Continuing this subversive take on the everyday wardrobe, cardigans engulfed models in a sweeping silhouette forgoing sleeves, hands hidden amid the chunky knitwear and accented with striking gold buttons. Coats melted into bags as two items of clothing became one, dresses were crafted from impossibly delicate fringing and waistbands were pierced with giant gold knitting needles. Meanwhile, the toy-like Polly Pocket silhouettes seen last season were relaxed as raw-edged leather t-shirts and shorts took on a boxier fit and polo tops were airbrushed into illusions.

Renowned for embracing surrealism, nowhere is that more prevalent than in Anderson’s penchant for accessories. This season saw Benglis enlisted to create transformative takes on rings, cuffs, brooches, earrings and pendants, crafting wearable sculptures as the perfect accompaniment to Anderson’s designs. In a series of polarising opposites, Squeeze Bags were buttery soft and Pebble Buckets were adorned with striking metal hardware, belt buckles were either scaled down or blown up and on foot, sleek pointy mules met clunky schoolboy shoes. The takeaway was clear: the world is more fun when you look at it from new angles.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Loewe WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-24