Giorgio Armani’s FW26 menswear collection marked the first in the house’s history not designed by its founder. Following Armani’s death in September 2025, it was announced that Leo Dell’Orco, his longtime right-hand man, would assume the role of creative director. This debut collection under Dell’Orco made it clear that he understands the Giorgio Armani DNA inside out.

Anchored in the concept of cangiante, which stems from a Renaissance painting technique whereby shadows were suggested on clothing by utilising a darker hue of the same colour, the pieces throughout the collection were all about hues and moods. It was a tonally dark collection, with the colour palette rarely going lighter than concrete grey, but this allowed a whole host of rich colours to come through. Deep purples looked regal on velvet jackets, emerald greens peeked out from beneath heavy hooded coats, and blues so dark they bordered on black shaped a series of relaxed suits.

The materials, too, were downright sumptuous. Velvets featured prominently and felt like the most prevalent fabric throughout the collection, paired with thick woollen coats, two-tone iridescent shirts, and plenty of corduroy. Naturally enough, the tailoring was impeccable. What would a Giorgio Armani runway be without a boxy double-breasted suit? These formal looks were offset with aviator jackets, vintage patterned ties, velvet pocket squares, leather driving gloves, and an abundance of hold-all day bags.