A shift in pace from the hectic schedule of designer debuts, the closing day itinerary of Paris Fashion Week kicked off with Kiko Kostadinov, getting guests up bright and early to take a seat in the Palais de Tokyo one last time. Looking inward, Laura and Deana Fanning focused on the intricacies of craft and form for this season’s collection. “It is not just the clothes we made that matter, but how we made them. We aim to strip away artifice and expectation, returning to the practices that defined our beginnings in fashion: engaging in a joyful exploration of material, composition, proportion, and construction,” said the designers.

In that process of exploration, the pair found the work of American painter Christina Ramberg. Synonymous with the Chicago Imagists movement of the 1960s, Ramberg’s artworks focus on the stylised depiction of the female form encased in jagged corsetry and binding silhouettes, complete with coiffed hairstyles and abstract colours. Reworked on the Kostadinov runway in a series of sculptural garments featuring dimensional cut-outs, sculpted hip trousers, cocooning tops, and scarf-hemmed asymmetrical skirts. Draped plaid dresses arrived in varying hues and cuts alongside a selection of second-skin shirts and structured denim co-ords. Working closely with mills across Europe to develop new variations of prints and fabrics, the design duo introduced fine-line etchings and trigonometric patterns across textured iterations of cotton, wool and jacquard.