Last season, Kiko Kostadinov drew inspiration from the stark, isolating worlds of Hungarian director Béla Tarr and Russian artist Kon Trubkovich. This season, that same sense of liminality lingers and evolves. As per the show notes, the collection “spans the course of a working day in a fictional island town, somewhere small and hard to place, at a remove from the outside world.” Creating a space detached from convention and untethered from the everyday, the Bulgarian designer’s vision for his namesake brand is shapeshifting each season.

Fabric and form took centre stage, with garments made to be felt, touched and worn snug to the body in lightweight twill, textured mesh, contra-stitched leather and woven kasuri cotton. Taking notes from Japanese craft saw jackets accented with Haori-inspired fastenings, socks worn with flip-flops, and jerseys featuring designs reminiscent of Yomitan pottery glazes. While the brand’s new Konkord Denim series made its runway debut, hand-made in Hiroshima.

Delving into the functionality of uniform, silhouettes were heavily inspired by Bulgarian military pyjamas, arriving in sets of paisley twill or crinkled cotton, while mix and match trousers, shorts and jackets were built from technical stretch twill. Fine tailoring was cut in loose forms made from raised-stripe cotton and intricate wools, alongside sweeping coats with signature K-dart construction, super-cropped blazers and heavily pleated trousers. On foot, the designer debuted a new ASICS collaboration, returning with tabi runners in a gradient-effect finish and archival 1960s typographic logo.