Junya Watanabe certainly knows how to set a scene. At his FW26 show, the models ambled through the crowd to Miles Davis, the music infusing the room with a relaxed, deeply cool energy. The collection was titled THE BEST, DRESSED, and Junya was characteristically concise with his thoughts. “The theme goes beyond the idea of simply dressing up, representing an update to Junya Watanabe Man’s established style,” was the one-line show note. So, much like a few other shows this season, the concept of “dressing up” was what was being tackled here.

The show opened with a duo of mixed-material patchwork blazers, a silhouette and style that has become something of a Junya Watanabe trademark. These gave way to models in woollen coats layered over suits, accessorised with an array of top hats, bowler hats, and trilbies. Several coats were deconstructed, linings worn on the outside and leather panels on grey wool. These led the way to a number of baggy patchwork suits, worn by models who didn’t lift their head for the whole show.

As always, there was a huge number of collaborations throughout. This season Junya worked with Levi’s, Stüssy, Spiewak, Rebuild by Needles, Mammut, Tricker’s, Heinrich Dinkelacker, New Balance, Rocky Mountain, and ’47 across a vast range of jackets, trousers, shirts, formal shoes and sneakers. Plenty of which proudly displayed the labels of these collaborative brands.

But whether it was the music or the dark colour palette, there was something distinctly funereal about the presentation. The top hats recalled those of pallbearers, while the models’ bowed heads, dipped either in sadness or reverence, really seemed to suggest mourning. Even the pacing felt cortege-like. What could it all have meant? Who were we all in mourning for? Junya, as always, was keeping silent.