Distortions of a daisy-age psychedelia were in full force for Alex Mullins this season. Something of a meditation about the current state of the world, the slipping away of reality, and the interrogation of it.
Despite having been going since 2013, after graduating from Central Saint Martins then from an MA the RCA, Mullins is little less known than his contemporaries. But there’s a consistent clarity with his aesthetic, namely a subversion of the mundane and an obsession with the graphically and structurally surreal. The best example of this being SS18’s motif of lopsided arms and shirts and jackets, which gave the impression of melting – or at least of a dislocated scapula. Some trousers found their waistbands creeping up the torsos of models, like vines up a trellis, playfully disfiguring the placement of pockets and zippers.
The unassuming take way, though, was undoubtedly the oversized suits, freely fitting and boxy easily worked in to anyone’s wardrobe, with a lightness of fabric being just right for the summer. All over prints on silk engulfed the final looks, as he digitised warping of spoof perfume advertising – a reminder us of how playfulness is done in menswear.
GALLERYBackstage at this show
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show