Since the launch of Alex Mullins’ namesake label five years ago, his star has steadily risen as one of London’s most imaginative interpreters of the workwear trend that has become a menswear staple. His collection today marked a new and ambitious chapter for the designer, as he expanded on last season’s collection and planted his stake firmly in the realm of tailoring – with great aplomb. 

A cast of all-female models touched on the same instinct for genderless dressing that saw Art School and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy stand out yesterday, with their disregard for the conventions of masculinity that would have once dominated men’s week. While Mullins’ aesthetic is more traditional, it was still a smart reminder of their versatility: the boxy shapes and exaggerated shoulders looked just as good on the ladies as it will inevitably do on his loyal fanbase of male customers.

The Alex Mullins logo was plastered across pants, tees and padded jackets in a playful riff on race car decals: a suitable match for the high-octane dressing of this season’s man (or woman). But it was the steady stream of oversized suits and outerwear that really stood out, cut in thick denim, speckled wools and – in a standout closing look – a lurid hot pink. With this collection, Mullins has become a new go-to destination for ambitious tailoring while retaining his outsider edge. Quite the accomplishment.