There is so much to discuss about Acne Studios’ SS26 show before you even get to the clothes. As the crowds shuffled in, they found the interiors of the 13th century Collège des Bernardins transformed into a moody cigar salon. Along the newly-erected mahogany walls, the New York-based artist Pacifico Silano displayed a series of photographic works that focused on details from gay erotica from the 70s and 80s. Nothing was explicit, instead the artist focused on the softer details – fingers touching a chin or a close-up of an eye. The show’s soundtrack came courtesy of Robyn, who teamed up with Yung Lean to re-record her track Robotboy from her 2005 self-titled album, while also teasing some new music. This is especially big news, as Robyn hasn’t released any new solo material since her 2018 album Honey. Could Robyn be returning? Let’s hope!

Acne wanted to get as far away from a gendered interpretation of clothing as possible. The show notes put an emphasis on notions of fluidity and an interplay between men’s and women’s wardrobes. This was done very literally at times: women wore suits with distinctly masculine cuts – straight-leg trousers, leather belts, and broad-shoulder jackets. Elsewhere, it took on a more abstract definition as silhouettes and materials embodied this fluidity. Look #1’s trousers were wrapped in brown paper, Look #18’s lace corset looked grafted together, and Look #44’s cardigan let the wearer’s arm burst through from beneath, like a body emerging from a chrysalis. Silano’s art pieces found themselves as part of the collection itself in the form of prints, often peeking through huge cutaways in jumpers and tanks.

At the end of the show notes, Acne reminded us that next year the brand turns 30 years old. We’ll have to wait and see what they have in store for us.