Acne Studios is turning 30 this year and Jonny Johansson is taking it surprisingly well. Feeling reflective about the previous 30 years, his FW26 collection was all about embracing those past decades. “You start off as the young brand; then suddenly, you have a legacy,” he wrote in the show notes. “I wanted this season to explore the passage of time as both a testament to our credibility and a reflection of how classic codes evolve. This is a new narrative shaped by admiration rather than irony: knowledge accumulated, techniques refined and stylistic conventions remixed – all in the style of Acne Studios.”

Unfolding across a lookbook, Johansson looked at the younger generations and studied how they play with classic menswear codes. He returned to some Acne Studios staples, such as the classic straight-legged 1996 denim jeans, and distressed them to give them more of a worn-in feeling. Other jeans had a printed trompe l’œil effect, as if they were photocopied, and some had bits of tape patching them together. In contrast, there was an aristocratic streak throughout too, with silk foulards, extremely cropped trousers and polo neck jumpers styled under open collar shirts.

It was also a great accessories collection. The Camero bag, as slouchy as ever and accessorised with its signature key, came in a new woven leather style, as well as in sunflower yellow and tanned suede. The sunglasses had a distinctly 1970s vibe, coming in shades of brown. Matching the patched denim jeans, the Oxfords and loafers already looked like they’d seen a cobbler or two, reinforcing a neatly pre-lived sensibility that ran through the entire collection.