In a car park on the fifth floor of the Barbican, Supriya Lele returned to the fashion calendar yesterday as if she’d never left. A fitting backdrop considering the designer founded Qrystal Partners gallery in her time away from the circuit, but now she’s back and delivering the louche sexiness we know and love her for. Telling a tale of what it means to be a British woman born to Indian immigrant parents, Lele turned to her heritage for inspiration while not allowing it to define her, painting a post-modern portrait of our multicultural world. Carving out a contemporary space between fantasy and reality, nostalgia was forgotten as Lele treaded into new territory.

Silhouettes reminiscent of the saris worn by Lele’s female relatives were transformed into daringly draped barely there dresses, twisted and knotted in forms cut close to the body. In a similar vein, the colonial origins of the saree blouse were reclaimed as the designer turned the traditional garment into a sensual leather corset. A neutral colour palette of browns, creams and black inspired by statues of ancient goddesses was interrupted with bursts of iridescent green, foiled lilacs and baby blues.

Touches of 90s minimalism were felt in low waistlines exposing hipbones, transparent knitwear and golden half-cup bustiers. On foot, Lele’s shoe choice was a standout, pairing each look with a pair of translucent jelly shoes fit for rock climbing on the beach. In a first for the brand, this season also debuted a collaboration with Bentley Motors, working together on leather outerwear to keep Supriya’s girls warm when heading out in this season’s slinky collection.