As we stand in the midst of a season boasting one of the biggest rosters of designer debuts we’ve ever seen, the steadfast vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons has never felt more essential, or more comforting. Returning to the usual show space of Fondazione Prada on the outskirts of Milan, orange and white balloons floated in the street outside, while inside the gallery’s floor had been washed in a vibrant hue of patent orange. The likes of Maya Hawke, Emma Chamberlain, K-pop group Enhypen, Peggy Gou, Sadie Sink, and The xx took their seats as the cavernous hall filled with the opening synth swells of Art of Noise’s 1984 track Moments in Love.

Titled Body of Composition, according to the show notes, this season was “a response to the overload of contemporary culture – a process of distillation, of filtration through clothes.” Frequently borrowing from the world they inhabit and its tumultuous cultural climate for inspiration, Prada and Simons delivered a collection which toyed with lightness, responding to the heavy complexities of modernity.

Garments were unconventional but seemingly ordinary from afar; bras lay hidden under bright V-neck sweaters, skirts combined three fabrics in one, and colourful satin gloves snaked up the arms, appearing as a continuation of the short-sleeved shirting. Unexpected iterations of classic silhouettes hit the runway: hot pants arrived with cargo-esque pockets, leather jackets were given boat necklines, and dresses were intentionally crinkled at the hem. Contrasts in length played with proportion as barely there mini skirts were paired with knitted cardigans and sweeping trench coats were worn alongside micro bralettes. The playfulness of the show venue’s ochre flooring was reflected in this season’s colour palette, blending lilacs, fuschias and lemon yellows with navys, greys and blacks.