Fuck algorithms, NFTs and VR headsets, Jonathan Anderson’s FW22 Loewe show wants to bring an altered reality straight to our wardrobes. Cue an explosive offering, which saw models emerge through strips of colourful ribbon, a site-specific installation from artist-duo Joe McShea & Edgar Mosa, in yellow rain macs and rubber boots lit by bright LEDs.
The body is Anderson’s vehicle, a vessel where basics go topsy turvy with sloped silhouettes that jut and curve around the waist like a white rabbit escaping from the hat of a magician, or knitted jumpers that reveal their Achilles heel in the form of nipple-bearing hearts or colourful sinkholes. Anything is possible here, and seeing as Anderson has nothing to hide, budgie smugglers and denim overshirts tied at the waist to form makeshift miniskirts also join in.
There are no bearings in this altered state, so don’t be surprised when sailor stripes fall straight off the chest, followed closely by skin-tight unitards and cursive script belts reminding you to smile. But such resplendence doesn’t stop here. Oh no, it too is echoed in the collection’s ultimate motif: the button, bringing sizable drama to long, grey overcoats and the brand’s signature Amazona bags. This is non-perfection executed to the highest degree, a “temporal void” of the designer’s own creation where plush wools and absurd kitty-prints live in complete harmony. If only we could stay here forever.
GALLERYBackstage images from Loewe FALL-WINTER-22
GALLERYCatwalk images from Loewe FALL-WINTER-22