hot off the press

Loewe FW21
Fashion | 5 March 2021

“THE SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELLED,” read the headlines. Loewe produced a newspaper to present the FW21 collection, a meta ephemera to record the uniqueness of now. With a charm-like quality similar to collectables you might find on eBay, it was packaged in a tin box, and included a letter opener, and a booklet publishing a passage from Danielle Steel’s latest novel The Affair, inspired by the serialisation of literary works in 19th-century papers.

And while the designs themselves bore their own faint references to the past (17th-century pilgrim buckles, and 20s riding jackets, for example), the overarching sensibility was typically graphic and modern for Jonathan Anderson’s creative vision. Shoes, belts and Goya bags were sculpturally overblown. Sleeves arced like crescent moons. With a psychedelic influence, all was soaked in bright tones that shimmered with embellishment. Anderson called it colour therapy. “Clothing is an amazing thing to work with right now,” he said in a walkthrough of the collection, “because you can have this idea of a fantasy that can become a reality.” The effect was irresistibly joyful, hot off the press.

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