Perspective shift
Surrealism is Jonathan Anderson’s modus operandi. Last season at Loewe, oversized lily flowers blossomed across chests and grew over the shoulders of asymmetric dresses. This time around, the designer enlisted former collaborator Lara Favaretto to create colourful confetti squares that punctuated his show space like a deconstructed Rubik’s Cube. Like the menswear offering, this collection was about reducing fashion to its foundations to engender something entirely fresh. Velvet, cashmere and satin came into play, as Anderson questioned form and function, wanting to assess how different materials react to light.
Printed silk dresses featured distorted floral motifs: “Playing with blur as a way to stress that fashion, rather than being about the moment, is about the later,” read the show notes. Elsewhere, leather tunic dresses with extra-long sleeves were held up at the hem by metallic bag chain detailing. Most notable were the two-piece top and trouser sets made from dyed feathers, proving that Anderson is a master at reconfiguring silhouettes from unconventional objects. A Loewe show never falls short when it comes to accessories: the new Squeeze bag in supple leather and oversized Puzzle totes were testaments to the designer’s holistic approach. An experimental collection that dismantled the codes of contemporary fashion and provided further proof that it’s always wise to expect the unexpected where Anderson is concerned.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Loewe WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-23