In this joint showing of two collections – Men’s SS22 and Women’s Resort – Jonathan Anderson returned to the physical presentation that has served him so well during the pandemic. Adding yet another layer to the format, this season’s character is given a fresh perspective with 33 images shot by Juergen Teller. Printed in various sizes, these photographs were a school throw-back for Anderson, not only in their resemblance to picture day photos but in their celebration of awkward teen self-expression, exploring your truest self in the privacy of your own bedroom.
In his accompanying introduction, Anderson spoke of a “heightened normality” to these domestic reconstructions and of embracing the idiosyncrasies that make us. With an understated sexual tension and mischievous freedom, the images tap into that mood perfectly. Vibrant shades of pink, green, yellow, electric blue and magenta give the men’s collection a youthful flamboyancy. Knitwear paired with running shorts, beaded curtain dresses and pillow cases worn as smocks give off an ambiguous DIY mood that blurs between stay-at-home, sports and club, while the occasional strawberry detail throws in an evocative note of something a little juicier.
The Women’s Resort shares a similarly bold chromatic theme, with an equally bold sense of individuality. Slanted stripes and vibrant prints feature heavily in a collection whose strength lies in keeping things simple. Silhouettes either hug the body or flow from it, a feature that is reflected in a classic trio of dress shapes: halterneck, short and camisole, each in an op-art style pattern that holds the gaze. As with the men’s collection, there’s an unapologetic note to the day-glo footwear that grounds each look, a reminder that in our isolated existence of the past eighteen months we may have accidentally stumbled upon some heightened self-awareness that’s worth hanging on to.
GALLERYCatwalk images from JW Anderson SS22