J.W. Anderson is undoubtedly one of the must-see shows of each season. The Northern Irish designer’s approach is eccentric, expressive, electric – distorting straight lines into beautiful, bonkers squiggles. It’s something Anderson also brings to Loewe as their creative director. But with J.W. Anderson being his home brand, it feels like he can get away with more here, and let his imagination unravel.

Case in point: J.W. Anderson SS24 presented us with tops that looked like floor mops, dresses that felt ripped from the sewing machine before they were finished, and militaristic leather jackets that still carry the image of the original pelt of leather. For this season, Anderson wanted to strip down clothing to where is all started: the roll of fabric. This was plain to see in his unfinished hems, shirts and shorts with excesses of fabric hanging from them and dresses that ruffled and bunched as they fight with maximalist tailoring.

In other sections, in a reflection of the “reassurance that comes from homely and childhood memories”, there was an abundance of knit. Not a new material for Anderson but one that has never been used this frequently. Asymmetrical knit tracksuits and interlocking tank tops were crafted with a homely quality to them, as if they were designed by a particularly eccentric grandmother. It gave cosy-core.

Also notable in this show was Anderson himself, who took his bow wearing the latest Irish rugby jersey (it’s global debut, no less). A little father’s day shout-out to his dad, Willie Anderson, who was captain of the Irish rugby squad.