Yohji Yamamoto has a cold. Or, at least, you’d think that by his cosily padded FW25 collection. Sleek silhouettes were out as most of the looks this season brought to mind the ribbed physique of the Michelin Man. But these bulkier pieces were still every bit as Yohji as a Spring/Summer collection. The insulated channels of the coats and trousers brought to mind pinstripes while chains and other hardware gave many of the outfits a punky edge. Slogans and graphics covered several of the pieces, “Despair is the conclusion of the floor” read one coat, the slogan appearing next to an image of Yohji himself walking away into the distance. 

Throughout the show, many of the models swapped coats and jackets, displaying the versatility of the styling this season. Many of them also held aluminium water bottles, perhaps the most sensible accessory we’ve seen in Paris so far.