Dior Day during Paris Fashion Week is notorious for drawing a crowd, but few have garnered as much attention as Jonathan Anderson‘s womenswear debut. Staged yesterday in the Jardin des Tuileries, fans and onlookers gathered in front of the show space hours ahead of its start time, eagerly waiting to catch a glimpse of the star-studded front row. A-List guests included Jenna Ortega, Anya Taylor-Joy, Luca Guadagnino, Jennifer Lawrence, Greta Lee, Jonathan Bailey, Rosalìa and Kit Connor. We could go on, but we’d be here all day.

A giant prism commanded attention at the centre of the show space, coming to life as the lights went down, emblazoned with the question, “Do you dare enter the house of Dior?” Created by Adam Curtis (with scenography by Guadagnino) in the style of a classic horror, the short film went on to present a spliced montage of Dior’s history, iconic shots from John Galliano’s or Yves Saint Laurent’s tenures were set to the sound of Lana Del Rey’s Born to Die. Establishing a new dawn, it was clear Anderson was stepping into the future of the house with all those who had come before him in mind, honouring its legacy through his progressive artistry. “Daring to enter the house of Dior requires an empathy with its history, a willingness to decode its language, which is part of the collective imagination, and the resoluteness to put all of it in a box,” read the show notes, echoing Anderson’s thought process. “Not to erase it, but to store it, looking ahead, coming back to bits, traces or entire silhouettes from time to time, like revisiting memories.”

Never one to do things by halves, Anderson’s inaugural collection boasted 74 looks. Opening with a pristine white dress draped into a crinoline silhouette, anchored by two bows, a series of garments which blended the past with the present followed. Archival references were palpable yet distinctly Anderson; the pirate-esque headwear harked back to Galliano’s Dior, while iconic silhouettes such as the Bar Jacket were reinterpreted with structured shoulders and navel-grazing cuts. Flowing silhouettes were accented by sudden ruptures, delicately pleated trousers featured robust waistlines, hemlines burst into origami-esque patterns, and transparent lace skirting spiked out at the hips. Frayed denim mini skirts and floral pussy bow blouses added a playful touch to the collection, working in juxtaposition to the fine tailoring and elaborate gowns found elsewhere. After the models hit the runway in procession for the finale, Anderson took his bow to a standing ovation – entering the house of Dior to a raucous seal of approval. Roll credits.