“When I discovered the Bally universe, it was clear to me that my energy and my point of view would be the catalyst for a renaissance.” These were the words of Bally creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor in the show notes for his SS23 debut collection for the luxury Swiss brand. One season on, it seemed apt for the designer to set his FW23 show in a renaissance palace; Casa degli Atellani, where Leonardo da Vinci lived when he painted The Last Supper. A setting of opulence and craft – two notions hard-wired to the Bally spirit. (Speaking of opulence, the show invite came with a mini cake. That we ate immediately, obviously.)

Californian-born, notions of performance, cinema and glamour are embedded in Rhuigi’s zip code, and here he transposed them through Bally’s codes: fusing a contemporary US sensibility with European elegance. The show notes read: “As a designer in the process of honouring the past while projecting its future, his approach eschews the fleeting moment for the full movie.” (Speaking of movie stars, Adrien Brody sat front row in a meticulous forest green suit.)

Time for the main event. Snakeskin and shearling coats popped in rich burgundy and lipstick red, cheetah print horse hair slippers, beaded-crystal skirts and a dramatic velvet look worn by Irina Shayk. Triple denim was tailored with Paul Newman cool, alongside leather down jackets and louche, diamond matelassé puffers, and sophisticated trenches. Equestrian nuances mixed with alpine, creating a lifestyle world for the Bally persona. Throughout, a contemporary formality was drawn: defined by luxurious textures and craft; to the rhythm of the designer’s authentic style. Prior to the show, Rhiugi shared a text from his mum on social media: “Do not run. Walk gracefully & wave” – top advice, well taken.