“We’re probably one of the very few brands who have an archive as extensive as this and I love looking through it, it’s so great to be able to pull Fiorucci‘s heritage,” says Daniel Fletcher previewing his pre-fall collection for the cult Italian brand.

Since joining Fiorucci as creative director in 2019, the British designer has pulled from its archive and re-energised. This season the exploration continues, blending an air of Italian sophistication with the vibrant, audacious cool of New York City – where Fiorucci’s legendary East 59th Street store reflected the era’s fashion, art and music in a hot, disco dream.

For pre-fall 2023, an archive deep-dive reveals gems: images taken from Fiorucci’s fifteenth birthday party at the legendary Studio 54 decorate jersey dresses, the brand’s hallmark Angels motif is laser-etched across denim, and a new banana bag is inspired by a print commissioned by Elio Fiorucci to Andy Warhol.

Hues of espresso brown, siren red and Michelangelo-like stone transport us to Elio Fiorucci’s Italy, while corduroys, faux leather blazers, mini skirts and acid-wash denim Harrington jackets speak to US pop culture tropes. Velour basketball jackets are crafted with the same finesse as relaxed, louche suiting, which sits beneath luscious faux shearling. A new formality abounds – cool, sleek, sexy. Speaking on the evolution of the brand’s aesthetic, Fletcher says: “We were so focused on jerseys in previous collections because everyone was at home during lockdown but now we’re maturing, and the way we make the clothes is advancing along with it.”

Accompanied by a campaign set on the outskirts of Rome, Fletcher’s experience in Italy highlighted Fiorucci’s legacy in the country; “As soon as you say Fiorucci in Italy everyone’s like, “Oh my god, Fiorucci!” The number of people who have told me their first pair of jeans were Fiorruci is crazy.”

The collection is available to shop in-store and online at fiorucci.com.