“The Prada-ness is Mrs Prada,” said Prada fan Marc Jacobs during the house’s post-show conference on digital live stream. Possible Feeling: Transmute II is the collection title – an undeniably Miuccia musing in its psychological poetry.
Fortified through collaboration with Raf Simons, the new creative partners explored notions of change and transformation, and possibilities that emerge from such spaces. Gender was the primary medium for this discourse, presenting a continuum and contradiction of expressions over a binary. Traditionally gendered fabrics and forms were recontextualised. Gowns were utility jumpsuits, and tailoring was rendered in shimmering paillettes. Suits were cut with vents to reveal the skin beneath the armour.
Like the mens’ collection showcased in January, intimacy was an overarching idea here, too. Prada used the same set, designed by Rem Koolhaas, lined with thick shaggy faux-fur that you can almost feel between your fingers while watching through a mobile screen, and the soundtrack saw another pulsating collaboration with electronic producer Richie Hawtin. The videography itself gets thrillingly close to the models before retreating. Such cinematic productions have been born out of the liminal space of confinement. Miuccia and Raf agreed in the conference: there’s a beautiful potential to storytelling collections through these new mediums that mustn’t be lost when real life resumes.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Prada WFW21