Back to the future
An archive taken to the runway, Paul Smith’s FW15 collection flaunted the slightly off beat aesthetic that has propelled the designer’s career since the 70s. With inspiration more understated than a pair of flared jeans, garments were traditionally cut, saturated in muted colours of mahogany, navy and burnt orange, and optimised by an intricate use of prism and checkered patterns. This isn’t about nostalgia – but reigniting what Sir Paul Smith does so well. If striped trousers were in, he made them bold, and if colour blocking was out, he brought it back.
You could say ahead of his time, and most certainly retro, this season’s line peddled wide shoulders, exaggerated lapels and high waisted cigarette trousers. Oversized, layered, faux-fur long line coats added a bit of drama. What would it be without a little rock ‘n’ roll? An injection of pastel blue made an appearance, as navy and black horizontal and vertical lined ensembles reiterated the all important triangle print. A wearable, two-toned melody best set to an 8-track app on your iPhone.
Smith’s ombré, Mondrian-like patchwork and sleek tailoring sends you back to the future.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show