New formality

Paul Smith FW24: classic with a twist
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 21 January 2024

For five decades, Paul Smith has been refashioning contemporary menswear towards a contemporary, playful wardrobe. This season, the designer continued to reshape and reimagine, mixing tradition with irreverent modernism. Toeing the line between workwear and formalwear allowed for relaxed cut blazers and double-pleated trousers to meet acid-wash denim and technical vests. Outerwear was a focal point of the season appearing as shearling-lined aviator jackets, slim-cut nylon trenches and despatch rider coats reminiscent of WW2 uniforms, while tight-fitting ribbed knitwear and fuzzy mohair jumpers were tactile textures beneath.

English silhouettes from the mid-20th century were reworked in unexpected fabrications, ranging from British gabardine and cavalry twill to heavy flannel and overdyed denim. Continuing to reinvent tradition saw a new Photogram print become central to the collection, a vivid decoration inspired by beaux arts style wallpapers and the Rayograph pioneered by Man Ray in the 1920s. The mottled colour palette of bottle green, plum, dark navy and chocolate brown was heightened by the simplicity of show space: a white-walled room punctuated with mirrors and sky-high windows which allowed natural sunlight to shine on Smith’s impeccable craft.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Paul Smith MENS-FALL-WINTER-24