- Text Elizabeth Vale
- Photography Nicky Zeng
- 25th September 2017
The CSM-educated designer Francesco Risso, who has previously worked under Miuccia Prada, has once again injected a playful exuberance into this season’s show, again celebrating a multitude of women across a multitude of worlds – elaborating on that off-kilter sensibility the much loved ‘Marni tribe’ is known for.
“They scavenge into trunks full of objects, finding items that belong to different individuals and carry different stories,” read the show notes. Diving into the collective consciousness and emerging with a mish-mash of troupes and stories, from exaggerated Alice in Wonderland florals to slouchy skater silhouettes, fifties bathing suits and animal-print fur. The loose scribbled gestures of David Salle’s early drawings determined the exaggerated hourglass silhouettes that cocooned the model’s bodies, while toiles and seams peaked through layers and raw hems sat effortlessly alongside structured satins. Standout pieces? The layered, colourful sheer beaded drop-waist slips – a nod to the twenties dreamy languor, yet with a fresh balance making them deliciously contemporary.