City of love

Marni’s Paris debut conjured the city’s lovers and flâneurs
By Alex James Taylor | Fashion | 28 September 2023

This season saw Francesco Risso bring Marni to Paris – the Italian house’s first time presenting in the French capital. For the occasion, the designer invited guests to Karl Lagerfeld’s opulent former private residence on Rue de L’Université. “Paris is the city of love, and I think we all need love,” Risso told BoF prior to the show.

It was romance à la Marni – celebrating a flâneur state of mind; of wandering the streets, subtle glances, midnight dances. Characters emerged from a dreamscape Paris, one akin to Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge, Leos Carax or Jacques Rivette. One brightly striped look paired a blazer jacket with a billowing skirt flicked up at the sides as if fixed in motion, caught in the breeze. Another wove checks across bonded leather, creating a sense of retro-futurism. Patterns mixed and matched. Crossed and clashed. Toying with proportion, oversized blazers hung across models as tunics barely passed beyond the bum. Throughout, several models wore their hair flung up into wild blown-out styles, as if they’d previously been in a fight with a leaf blower. One model wearing an all pink-ensemble paired her dishevelled barnet with black lipstick and black cat eye sunglasses – if Tim Burton had made Barbie.

Furthering the fantasy, flowers blossomed from pieces. Some as collaged cotton prints taken from antique botanical almanacs, others crafted from tin cans, transformed into wildflowers that sprouted from dresses with sculptural excellence – “collected like illusionary memories, stacked in a tactile ecstasy.” As guests sat on white inflatables and listened to a Dev Hynes soundscape, we’d found our new happy place. Please collect us next season. 

GALLERYCatwalk images from Marni WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-24





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