When Luca Magliano revealed his previous collection at Pitti Uomo 105 back in January, it felt like a star was emerging. The Pitti collection’s distinct take on Giorgio Armani’s oversized suits felt like a young designer looking back at the greats before him and genuinely putting a new spin on things. Magliano is an incredibly hyped brand at the moment, not least because Luca Magliano is something incredibly rare – he’s a young designer on the Milan schedule. It isn’t a secret that the Milan schedule has been historically hostile towards young designers and homegrown talent, with many of the country’s best young designers often decamping to London and Paris instead of trying to compete with the behemoth brands.

But Magliano is made of sterner stuff. His SS25 collection was another revelatory moment on the fashion calendar. Back again were the grey single-pleated suit trousers, an almost totemic garment in Italian fashion, but playfully rendered through the brand’s athleisure codes. Leather belts were replaced with skinny pieces of string, or the waistband itself was deconstructed to be inside out. Don’t worry, leather belts did appear (this is Milan, after all) but holding up baggy grey sweatpants.

The collection’s show notes abstractly referred to archaeology and fossils, memories of the 2000s, beach attire, racing cars and reflectors, chemsex, and the body as subordinate to society’s conventions. Strangely, this disparate list of influences does reflect the styling of the typical Magliano model, where different styles clash on one body – a mohair jumper with tracksuit bottoms, a single-breasted blazer and a speedo. Again, Magliano teamed up with the Dutch binder brand UNTAG for a new collection of chest binders that have Magliano’s branding emblazoned across the models’ chests. Nobody is doing it like Luca Magliano right now.