Lueder’s FW25 collection made its debut during Berlin Fashion Week in early February but if you thought that Marie Lueder would simply just do the same show again, you’d be gravely mistaken. “The concept for the show in London is about being very present and being in the space together with the audience,” Marie Lueder told us a few days prior to the show. “Starting the collection in Berlin to now, we have our final coming together and we’re going to party.”

And party they did. Transforming the NEWGEN space into a Berlin rave (a very different vibe to the S.S. Daley show that happened in the space only two hours previous), the elusive DJ duo Two Shell blasted hardcore beats as overhead spotlights showered individual dancers in columns of light. These dancers were our models and they were fully kitted out in Lueder’s FW25 collection. It was a clever presentation that showed just how wearable and versatile Lueder’s designs are.

But for all its pilled-up pretences, this season’s Lueder collection was surprisingly elegant. “I wanted to work with ideas of camouflage, but in a different way,” Lueder explained as we discussed some of this season’s key pieces. A design that ran through the collection did look like camouflage at first, but it was actually a tapestry print which Lueder took inspiration from the curtains and carpets of Dumfries House, an 18th-century mansion in rural Ayrshire. Elsewhere, there were a number of “undead teenagers” in the collection. Essentially, sportswear embossed with the tapestry pattern but mixed with up-cycled sportswear (including jerseys from actual sports teams) and lycra pieces that revealed the underwear beneath. All of it coming together under Lueder’s trademark “zombie styling.”

Dragon skin leather pieces harked back to Lueder’s medieval aesthetic which she has become known for but which she notably stayed away from this season. Going further down the horror route, perhaps the most notable piece from Lueder’s collection (which instantly went viral after its debut in Berlin) was a simple tank top with the words “Men Are So BACK” in plastic-y red lettering on the front. “I wanted to make a statement about other types of horror, political horror. Everyone is saying now, ‘I’m so back!’ and I wanted it to be a bit more controversial and a bit more like a joke.” There are many ways of reading the tank top’s message, but it was intended to refer to the likes of Trump and Musk and the fact that, whether we like it or not, men are indeed back.