Easily one of the most anticipated collections of the season, Louise Trotter’s debut for Bottega Veneta set a new standard for how these shows should be done. Few ever doubted Trotter’s ability, she is a seasoned veteran by now. Having served as creative director at Jigsaw, Joseph, Lacoste and Carven, her appointment at Bottega Veneta stood out as one of last year’s most significant creative-director moves.

For her debut collection, Trotter “return[ed] to the beginning to find the present.” She looked to the creative directorship of Laura Braggion, the house’s first female lead, and the lasting legacy of the house’s iconic woven Intrecciato pattern. The collection was co-ed, but had a distinct focus on its womenswear. The Intrecciato was featured throughout, making its way onto trench coats, clogs, belts and collars, all rendered in soft leather.

While it’s easy to get swept up in all the leather, the suiting deserves special attention. Across both the men’s and women’s looks, the tailoring was wonderfully roomy, nodding to distinctly 1980s silhouettes. The American Gigolo references felt intentional, especially with Lauren Hutton seated front row, clutching her namesake “Lauren” bag — the iconic Bottega piece she helped turn into one of the brand’s most coveted styles after its appearance in the film.

Elsewhere, several looks were crafted from recycled fiberglass needles, creating an almost hair-like texture that shimmered and flickered like flames. The bags, because with Bottega it’s always about the bags, were remodelled and revived. There were new proportions for the Lauren, the Knot now appeared with much softer structures, and Cabat can now be transformed into a clutch. New bags, called the Squash, the Framed Tote, and the Crafty Basket, introduced Trotter’s vision to Bottega’s world.

A note on the soundtrack. As Bottega celebrates its 60th birthday this year, Trotter asked artist and director Steve McQueen to whip up some magic for the show’s soundtrack. What he produced was an audio work that brought together Nina Simone and David Bowie, mixing their respective versions of the song Wild is the Wind. Together, they sing as a duet, a meeting that aurally conveyed the interlocking strands of the Intrecciato.