night on the razz
Like a spring that’s been coiled for too long, Loewe‘s SS22 collection teases the moment of our collective, eruptive release. Charged with the promise of intimacy and physical touch, creative director Jonathan Anderson has presented a typically innovative mixed-media collection that riffs on the long-awaited return of a night on the razz. Accompanied by a book of works by New York-based German painter Florian Krewer, this return is envisaged in a riot of colour and pure optimism, an acknowledgement both of what we’ve just emerged from and that things can only get better from here.
This sense of unfettered possibility is translated into a collection that holds no bars, where no look is too ambitious and no material too audacious. Trousers constructed from rope, coats girded by metal plaques and tops made of multi-coloured layers of tulle feed an appetite for something new, something different. Elsewhere the idea of distortion and dance-floor euphoria is born out of sequinned animal prints, space-dye neckerchiefs and reflective tasseled looks that are made to move in.
Draped tunics offer glimpses of skin for an air of sweaty, sexual energy while a selection of dinky bumbags completes the clubbing inventory. Alongside the book of Krewer’s work is a second publication containing the work of British photographer David Sims. Both are designed by M/M (Paris) and make up the box of goodies that was sent to guests pre-show. With their shared emphasis on vibrantly coloured urban spaces and the bohemian characters that inhabit them, Sims’ imagery dovetails perfectly with Krewer’s for an evocative snapshot of everything we’ve got to look forward to.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show