It’s been a busy week for Issey Miyake. Exactly seven days after unveiling Homme Plissé’s SS26 collection at Pitti Uomo, the brand’s IM MEN line took to the runway in Paris. Seeing both collections presented so close together underscored just how distinct these two brands really are. Homme Plissé leans into utility and wearability, producing sturdy pieces around which one could easily build an entire personal wardrobe. IM MEN takes a more avant-garde approach, favouring bolder silhouettes and deliberately eye-catching details. Where Homme Plissé shows are fairly tranquil, today’s IM MEN show ended with a group of shawled dancers busting moves as the models strode through the final walk.

The central inspiration for SS26 was the pioneering Japanese ceramicist Shoji Kamoda. In his short career, Kamoda became a superstar of the ceramics world due to his unconventional designs and prolific work ethic. Today, he is regularly referred to as the 20th century’s greatest ceramist in Japan. Taking designs directly from many of Kamoda’s pieces, the IM MEN collection was a highly patterned affair. The opening look transformed a pattern found on a jug into an all-round print, the outfit enveloping the model’s body from head to toe. Further on, there were a number of metallic silver looks, including a fabulous take on a trench coat, that again reflected work by Kamoda – his silver pottery pieces that have pure silver pigment in their glaze.

Shocks of colour were introduced in pieces that were partially constructed from recycled fishing nets and a smart two-piece in dusty purple and lime green was paired with the footwear of the season, flip flops. The final look was a huge shawl in an all-round print that featured button-on pockets and zips to suggest structure.