• Photography Tassili Calatroni
  • Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 17th January 2017

Think positive

Fendi had a message this season. Well, a few. Bouncing off the state of uncertainty that’s shrouding our cultural and political status worldwide, inspirational words like ‘Love’, ‘Try’, ‘Trust’ and ‘Listen’ were a recurring motif across an overwhelmingly positive collection.

Silvia Venturini Fendi is the Roman luxury house’s accessories designer, and she carries the functionality inherent in that side into her men’s collections. This season she had been thinking about our day-to-day realities – and it showed, both in the clothes, which were more subtle in their playfulness this season, and in those words, which could be taken as a Fendi motto for living in 2017. “Lines that underline” was the collection’s calling card, meaning hidden luxuries like secret pocket details, fur and quilting on the inside of otherwise simple-looking jackets and overcoats.

Fendi demonstrates better than anyone that fashion can be so much more than meets the eye (just take the tangerine shearling jacket that looked faux from afar – it wasn’t). Makes sense that the motto Karl Lagerfeld realised for the brand several decades ago is Fun Fur, shortened to ‘FF’. It represents that quintessential Fendi cheek, and it was in the FW17 in droves. Like the leopard accents that livened up sleeves and collars on grey coats, pops of vivid blue and chalky pink on cropped trousers, and colourful, furry pool slides. “The everyday, in the FENDI way,” read the show notes. And nothing is more those two things at once than a supermarket shopper, done in candy stripe fur. Casual.

There was also a strong sportswear strain, communicating Mrs. Fendi’s thinking about real life, in which comfort is key. 80s and 90s vibes came in the form of cropped trackpants, elevated with boxy coats – some full fur. The neck zipper of cycling tops could be glimpsed from under those more formal pieces, revealing that a full pastel-toned Fendi tracksuit must have been hiding underneath. Picture yourself wearing that down to your local Tesco, complete with a knowing grin. Now that’s luxury.