Deep rooted

Ermenegildo Zegna FW15
18 January 2015

In 1929 reforestation began around a Trivero mill, planting over 500,000 trees. All Zegna. Ecological stewardship is part of the brand’s history – no gimmick. The brand’s DNA. Reverting to one’s heritage is a popular and lucrative exercise practiced by the majority of houses today. But Zegna has being doing it for decades, leading the vanguard in the process.

Eco-thoughtfulness is sincerest in all facets, not just the clothes: the set will be replanted at Oasi Zegna (an impressive and freely accessible nature park and the first Italian example of environmental patronage). Then, of course, fibres are responsibly sourced and produced while archived Harris Tweeds are used for their recyclability. All down with Mother Nature.

And the brand’s mastery in weaving, a large part of its heritage, is exemplified through suiting: impeccably crisp, faultless, sharp – the best. The brand’s known for it. Stefano Pilati has played with various historical threads to weave a seasonally apt collection of practicality with novel design. Tailored separates epitomise all of the above: three-quarter plaid coats have a silver shimmer – a dew-like finish – while striped patterns are earth-toned and placed to contrast with each other, creating depth.

Then there are the brushed-velvet outfits – in crimson, pastel and khaki greens. While trousers, jackets and coats have carefully considered details: buttoned-tabs; concealed flap and jet pockets positioned on shins, ankles and the backside; and turtle and mandarin collars, sometimes asymmetrically cut and styled, helping to sculpt these progressively tailored males.

Incredibly informed – every detail and finish has been thoroughly considered. Damn good design. Zegna will always be revered as an institute of fabric finesse and tailored finery. But Pilati adds character; he’s a master of his craft.

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show