Night at the Museum
This time last year, Cottweiler’s collection was based on the idea of a gang of boys camping out in a shopping mall, this time around they were breaking and entering London’s Natural History Museum. The iconic building’s towering installations were transformed; draped in polyproylene sacks and underlit like a fortress.
In the Mineralogy hall where the runway was staged, a museum caption printed on the wall touched on the unusual value humans have always placed on rocks “for their beauty, strength and strangeness”. It was an interesting parallel to the brand’s ongoing theme of sportswear fetishism, and how specific subcultures invest ritualistically in the uniform of tracksuits and trainers. The underground rock formations of the Krizna Jama cave network in the Lož Valley, Slovenia inspired the collection as designers Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell played out a tension of nature vs. the synthetic.
Here, Cottweiler’s sportswear silhouettes were embellished with rock-climbing gear, flashlights slung from the neck and strange little idiosyncrasies like a cute and fluffy lilac mohair beanie. Geological textures were simulated with fabrics such as acid-wash denim, crushed velvet, distressed nylon, and merino wool pulled and teased to feel rough, while subtle tonalities through the clothes played up an idea of phosphorescence on crystalline structures. The last boy to walk the runway had a glass-encased geode strapped to his body like a backpack – just a casual souvenir to commemorate his night at the museum.
GALLERYBackstage at this show
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show